Here at Muddy Paws Corgis we offer life time breeder support and training. We want all our puppies to grow up and succeed in life as happy, healthy, and well mannered members of your family and society. It's very important to start training your puppy from day one! Below we give training advice, as well as offer an online course trough another training facility.
Online Training
Hello Muddy Paws Family!!!!!
Training your Puppy/Dog is a Major and Essential part to owning a Corgi puppy or any breed. I know with this whole COVID-19 threat, that its harder to take training classes and get your puppy of to the best start. Also trying to keep up training with your grown dog training and keeping them busy during this time. :) So I did some research and have discovered an all online training program that not only can all my puppy families use but anyone who has a dog. Training is essential to having the very best canine companion and making sure you are giving them their best life. They are an all online training course that you and your whole family can do, on your own time and in the comfort of your sweatpants. It is really unique in that you have all your training in one place and the ability to use it on mobile so you can take the training anywhere. They have everything from potty training, to nipping and even a section called Pawsfit to get you and your pup active in a fun and productive way. You can actually get an entire lifetime membership with live trainer calls. It does cost $238 however all my puppy parents both past and future can get it for only $178 with my code VONPAWS The link to their website is below www.baxterandbella.com/learn-more
CODE: VONPAWS
AKC Training, Tips & Tricks
1. Adjusting to a New Home 2. Crate Training 3. Potty Training 4. Stop Puppy Biting 5. How to socialize your puppy during times of social distancing 6. Preventing Resource Guarding 7. Reactivity vs. Aggression 8. How to Deal with Leash Aggression 9. Ignore Distractions 10. Clicker Training & Off Leash Training Adjusting To A New Home You’ve chosen a puppy, bought supplies, puppy-proofed your home, and established some household rules. Now it’s time to bring your new puppy home. Of course you’re excited and eager to start this new bond, but try to imagine what this is like for the puppy. He’s just been taken from his mother, siblings, the only humans he knows, and his familiar environment. This can be scary and confusing for a puppy, but there are several things you can do to help him adjust to his new life. Your first instinct may be to bring him in the house, let him explore and immediately meet his new family. But, take things slowly. Tips for Bringing Your New Puppy Home Choose a potty spot:Start by taking him to the outside area where you want him to go potty. If he does relieve himself, use a command that you’ll stick to, like “go potty” or whatever you’re comfortable with and remember to praise him.
Introduce him to his new home:You’ve already prepared a puppy-proof area of your house, right? This is where you’ll bring him. Many people erroneously think they should just let the puppy loose to explore the house at will, but this is a sensory overload. Too many new places, smells, and people at once may just confuse him. Instead, let him explore a designated area. Perhaps where his food and water are. Or he can familiarize himself with the small, puppy-proofed space where you’ve placed his crate. Let him get used to this space before you go on further exploratory missions. Then introduce him to the rest of the house, one room at a time, skipping the rooms you’ve decided are off-limits. Introduce him to his new family members: Preferably one person at a time, although this will be difficult with all the excitement about a new puppy. But try to give him a chance to meet each of you quietly. Puppies like to chew: Provide appropriate and safe puppy chew toys for him, and if he starts to chew on anything else, redirect him to his chew toy. Here are some other tips about living with a chewing puppy. Show him his sleeping place. Puppies sleep between 15-to-20 hours a day, and although they’re often likely just to drop in their tracks, bring him to his crate or dog bed when he seems to be ready for a nap and at bedtime. Contrary to what you may think, crates are not “doggie jail.” Dogs prefer the security and safety of a den, and this crate will become his safe place, with some encouragement. Keep a close eye on your new puppy. He should be supervised or at least within your vision in his “doggie den” at all times during these early days. Take him with you from room to room, giving him a chance to explore under your watchful eye. Start enforcing rules. Although it may seem too early to you, he needs to learn the house rules from the very beginning. The more structured and consistent his day is, the better adjusted and happier he’ll be. Whether it’s chewing or any other behavior you don’t want to encourage, use gentle redirection. Yelling at him or punishing him will only frighten and confuse him, not teach him. Remember that he is only just starting to learn what’s expected of him. Praising good behavior and deflecting unacceptable behavior is an effective way of helping him learn. Most of all, take things slowly. Gradually expand his environment, under your supervision, of course. With lots of affectionate contact with the family, consistent rules and routine, rewards for good behavior, and gentle corrections for unacceptable behaviors, he’ll quickly learn his place in his new “pack.” Not only that but, And most importantly, as he adjusts to his new environment, you will establish a bond that will endure throughout his life.
CRATE TRAINING 1. Crate training isn't "imprisoning" your dog. It teaches them responsibility and calms anxiety. 2. Create positive associations with the crate through the use of treats and games. 3. Be patient — crate training takes at least six months. We all want a well-behaved dog that doesn’t tear things up and goes to the bathroom outside — and crate training is an important part of that. It creates a safe environment for your dog that teaches them responsibility and independence. While many people view crates through the human lens of being “caged up,” dogs are naturally den animals and enjoy being in small, enclosed places. It provides a sense of security and calms anxiety. Step 1: Choose the Right Crate for Your Dog “You want to get one that’s durable, comfortable, and flexible with whatever training you’re doing,” says Flayton. For dogs that prefer to sleep in the dark, she recommends kennel or airline crates (which are more enclosed), while wire ones work best for other dogs. It’s important, she notes, that you don’t buy a crate that is too big for your dog. “Depending on how big your dog is going to get, buy the right crate for their adult size,” she advises. “Then get a divider so you can build the space and grant them more and more space.” Step 2: Establish the Proper Mindset “The more the dogs associate the crate with a relaxed mindset, the more they’ll ultimately enjoy hanging out in there,” says Flayton. If you put the dog in the crate when they’re playing, then they’ll want to come back out and continue to play. But if you bring them in it when they’re calm, they will likely view it as a place of rest. Start by bringing them in for 10 minutes at a time and work your way up from there. Step 3: Determine How Your Dog Will Be Most Comfortable Some people use dog beds or towels to create a comfy environment, but that may not always be the best option. Once again, it’s trial and error. “Depending on the dog you have, they may tear a dog bed apart or they may use it to pee on,” she warns. “It’s not a bad thing for them to just sleep on the crate mat itself. Dogs actually do prefer hard surfaces.” Step 4: Give the Dog a Treat After They Go Into the Crate Once again, positive association rules. One of Flayton’s favorite tricks is giving the dog a KONG toy filled with peanut butter that she’s put in the freezer. “When they’re hanging out in the crate, they have something that stimulates them, but they have to work down the frozen peanut butter,” she says. It gets the dog used to being in the crate for a longer period of time, while also associating it with an enjoyable activity. Step 5: Keep an Eye on the Time Your dog needs time outside the crate to play, eat, and use the bathroom. Dogs don’t want to soil where they sleep, but if there’s too long of a stretch without a walk, they might end up doing so. Step 6: Play Crate GamesThe dog shouldn’t see the crate as a negative place. To ensure this, incorporate the crate into fun games where the pup goes in and out of the open crate at their own will. Flayton likes to throw the ball in the crate when playing fetch or hide treats inside for the dog to find. Step 7: Keep Your Dog “Naked” “Dogs should never, ever have collars or tags or anything on when they’re in the crate,” warns Flayton. If the tag gets caught in the crate the dog could choke themself. Step 8: Set Your Dog Up for Success Once you are ready to give your dog more time inside the crate, do it in small steps. “You don’t want to go out to dinner for six hours,” cautions Flayton. “Maybe just go get a cup of coffee and come back.” She also advises using a recording device to determine what your dog does while you’re gone. “Are they anxious? Are they pacing? Or are they calm?” she says. “Then you know — and when you come back, you can reward them.” Step 9: Be Patient Prepare yourself for at least six months of training. There will be ups and downs since dogs aren’t linear learners, but success will come, says Flayton. “Even when it feels like you’re banging your head against a wall, as long as you stay calm and consistent in your methodology, your dog will eventually look for the reward and you’ll have the opportunity to reward them.”
Potty Training 1. Crates are an important puppy housetraining tool that can make your life easier. 2. pads and paper training offer a temporary solution to housetraining. 3. Consistency, attention, understanding, and patience are all key in housetraining. Learning how to potty train puppies at the right time and place is one of the most important first steps you can take for a long, happy life together. House soiling is among the top reasons why dogs lose their homes or end up in shelters. Few people are willing to put up with a dog who destroys rugs and flooring, or who leaves a stinky mess that you have to clean after a hard day at work. That’s why it’s so important to make sure that you do some research in advance on how to house train a dog, decide what will work best for your situation, and make a plan. There are three tried-and-true methods for training your puppy, says Mary Burch, Ph.D., director of the AKC’s Canine Good Citizen and S.T.A.R. Puppy programs. These include: Crate training Paper training Also, frequent walks outside help. Dr. Burch says that there are pros and cons to each, but they all can be successful if you follow a few basic tips, including: Controlling your dog’s diet Keeping a consistent schedule; this pertains to trips outside, feeding and exercise Providing regular exercise—it helps with motility Reinforcing your puppy for “going” outside Let’s explore some of these concepts in depth. Crates Rank High as a Potty Training Tool Many people who are new to dogs cringe at the idea of confining their puppies in a crate, but the reluctance to use this tool generally evaporates after a few days of living with a new pet. Dog crates make life easier. It’s a good idea to get your dog accustomed to one for many reasons, such as vet visits, travel, convalescence, and safety. Dogs are den animals and will seek out a little canine cave for security whether you provide one or not. That makes it relatively easy to train your dog to love her crate. The principle behind using a crate for housetraining is that dogs are very clean creatures and don’t like a urine-soaked rug in their living spaces any more than you do. It’s important that the crate is the right size—just large enough for the dog to lie down, stand up, and turn around. If it is too large, the dog will feel that it’s OK to use one corner for elimination and then happily settle down away from the mess. Many crates come with partitions so you can adjust the size as your puppy grows. When she feels an urge, the puppy will usually let you know by whining and scratching. That’s her signal that she has to go and wants out of her little den. Now! Don’t delay because if you let your pup lose control in her crate, she’ll get the idea that it’s OK to mess up her living space. Then she’ll think nothing of leaving little packages around where you live, too. Puppy Pads and Paper Training Dr. Burch says the use of puppy pads and paper training can be “tricky because you’re reinforcing two different options for the puppy.” In an ideal situation, pups would learn to hold it indoors and only eliminate at specific spots outdoors. But some cases may require a bit of creative thought, such as a person who has a job that makes it impossible to get home several times a day, or for a tiny dog living where the winters are brutal. Puppy pads give a dog the option of relieving herself in an approved spot at home. After the dog matures, the owner can then work on having the dog do her business outdoors all the time. Create a Housetraining Schedule for Your Puppy It is vital to housetraining success. Puppies have tiny bladders, and water runs right through them. The same is true for solid matter. You have to make sure you are giving your puppy ample opportunity to do the right thing. A good guide is that dogs can control their bladders for the number of hours corresponding to their age in months up to about nine months to a year. (Remember, though, that 10 to 12 hours is a long time for anyone to hold it!) A 6-month-old pup can reasonably be expected to hold it for about 6 hours. Never forget that all puppies are individuals and the timing will differ for each. Monitor daily events and your puppy’s habits when setting up a schedule. With very young puppies, you should expect to take the puppy out:
First thing in the morning
Last thing at night
After playing indoors
After spending time in a crate
Upon waking up from a nap
After chewing a toy or bone
After eating
After drinking
This could have you running for the piddle pad, backyard, or street a dozen times or more in a 24-hour period. If you work, make some kind of arrangement (bringing your pup to the office or hiring a dog walker) to keep that schedule. The quicker you convey the idea that there is an approved place to potty and that some places are off-limits, the quicker you’ll be able to put this messy chapter behind you. Observation and Supervision You have to watch your puppy carefully for individual signals and rhythms. Some puppies may be able to hold it longer than others. Some will have to go out every time they play or get excited. Some will stop in the middle of a play session, pee, and play on. As with human babies, canine potty habits are highly idiosyncratic. Control the Diet Puppies have immature digestive systems, so they can’t really handle a lot of food. That’s why it is recommended that you break up the puppy feeding schedule into three small meals. Another thing to keep in mind is the food itself, which should be the highest quality puppy food. Whatever you choose, make sure it agrees with your puppy. You might want to check out one of the four distinct Purina® Pro Plan® nutritional platforms. They have different formulas for your pup’s particular needs and preferences. Real meat is the first ingredient and there are no added artificial colors or flavors. Examining a dog’s stool is the best way for an owner to figure out whether it’s time for a change in diet. If your puppy is consistently producing stools that are bulky, loose, and stinky, it may be time to talk to your vet about switching to a new food. Overfeeding may also provoke a case of diarrhea, which will only make the task of housetraining that much more difficult. Praise Scolding a puppy for soiling your rug, especially after the fact, isn’t going to do anything except make her think you’re a nut. Likewise, some old methods of punishment, like rubbing a dog’s nose in her poop, are so bizarre that it’s hard to imagine how they came to be and if they ever worked for anyone. On the other hand, praising a puppy for doing the right thing works best for everything you will do in your life together. Make her think that she is a little canine Einstein every time she performs this simple, natural act. Be effusive in your praise—cheer, clap, throw cookies. Let her know that no other accomplishment, ever—not going to the moon, not splitting the atom, not inventing coffee—has been as important as this pee. Reward your pup with one of his favorite Purina® Pro Plan® treats. Make sure they’re nice and small, easy for your puppy to digest. If your dog has an accident, says Dr. Burch, don’t make a fuss, just clean up the mess. A cleaner that also kills odors will remove the scent so the dog will not use it in the future. Blot up liquid on the carpet before cleaning the rug. If you catch the dog starting to squat to urinate or defecate, pick her up and immediately rush outside. If she does the job outdoors, give her praise and attention. Remember that when it comes to housetraining, prevention is the key. Housetraining Problems Following these rules will usually result in a well house-trained puppy. But sometimes, it doesn’t go as planned. Dr. Burch notes that sometimes house soiling is a sign of a physical issue. “Well before the several month mark, a dog who has seemed impossible to housetrain should have a good veterinary workup,” she says. If your vet finds that your dog is healthy, the next step is to find a trainer or behaviorist who has had experience with this issue. Here are some common complaints that trainers say they have encountered: “My lapdog is piddling all over the house!”This is common among people who own toy dogs. Some trainers recommend teaching little dogs to use indoor potty spots, in much the same way as a cat uses a litter box. In addition to piddle pads, there are actual dog potty boxes for indoor use. Other trainers say that with consistency, you can house train a little dog. It just may take a little additional time, attention, and effort. “My dog keeps peeing in the same spot where she had an accident.” That’s probably because you didn’t clean up the mess efficiently and there is still some odor there, signaling that this is a prime potty spot. In your new puppy supply kit make sure you have plenty of pet stain enzymatic cleaners and carefully follow instructions on using them. “I gave her the run of the apartment. When I came home, there was a mess.”This is a common mistake among dog owners. They see some early signs that the dog is getting the idea, and declare victory too soon. Even when the puppy is consistently doing what you want, keep to the schedule to make sure the good habits are ingrained. “He’s soiling his crate!” Dr. Burch says dogs who come from pet stores, shelters, or other situations where they have been confined for long periods and have had no other choice but to eliminate in their kennels will often soil their crates. The best approach would be to go back to square one with crate and house training. Here are the steps to follow: Assess how well your dog can control his bladder and bowels when not in the crate. Carefully controlling diet and schedule. Give frequent trips outside, including after every meal, first thing in the morning and last thing at night. If you work, consider a dog walker. Clean everything so there are no odors left. How Long Does Puppy Potty Training Take? That can vary considerably, says Dr. Burch. There are many factors to consider, such as age, learning history, and your methods and consistency. An 8-week-old puppy is very different developmentally than a 5-month-old puppy. Some puppies have perfect manners after just a few days. Others can take months, especially if the dog has had a less than ideal situation before coming to you. With patience and persistence, though, most dogs can learn.
Stop Puppy Biting 1. Puppies who learn bite inhibition are less likely to grow into adult dogs who bite. 2. Offering puppy chew toys can help teach your puppy what is acceptable to bite or chew on. 3. Sometimes, it’s a good idea to gently put your puppy in their crate to calm them down. Puppies’ mouths are filled with about 28 teeny-tiny razors that seem to be attracted to your fingers or toes. Dog trainers call it “play biting,” but it’s irksome and often painful when your cuddly pup seems to be all teeth. However, this is completely normal for puppy teething and necessary for development, and something you can train away with a few simple steps. Teach your puppy bite inhibition Learning how to moderate the force of a bite is very important for all dogs. There may come a time when they’re in pain or fearful, and they put their mouth on you or someone else. But if they’ve learned bite inhibition, they understand that they shouldn’t bite down hard. Puppies naturally nip at each other while playing. If they bite too hard on their mother or littermate, the other dog will likely make a loud yelp sound, warning the puppy, “Hey, that hurt!” Depending on the dog, you can teach this, as well, by making a high-pitched “ow!” sound if they bite you. Beware though, because, for some puppies, this actually gets them even more worked up and likely to bite. In this case, it is better to turn quietly around, walk away, or gently put the pup into their crate for a few minutes to calm down. If they do back off, be sure to reward your dog with a treat and some verbal praise. Teach your puppy that biting means “game over” If your puppy bites you while playing, that means playtime is over, with no exceptions. Yelling at or physically punishing your puppy, as strange as it sounds, is also a type of reward. It teaches them that biting gets some kind of response from you, which is known as negative reinforcement. This can also make them fearful of being handled. Instead, teach them that biting will get them nothing. Kathy Santo, dog trainer and columnist for AKC Family Dog, suggests turning around and tucking your hands into your armpits.“It’s actually a calming signal and a minor form of attention withdrawal,” she says. “And be careful not to roughhouse with your young pup in ways that only encourage them to lose control and bite you.” Give your puppy an alternative item to chew It’s a good idea to keep a puppy chew toy at hand at all times, so you can anticipate biting behavior and substitute the toy for your hand or furniture. Doing so will let pups know what is OK to bite or chew. If they start nibbling at your fingers or toes while you’re playing, offer a toy instead. Again, if they continue to nip, stop the play session immediately. If you’ve been training your puppy to sit, you might also redirect them by asking them to sit and rewarding with a toy. Prevent the pounce If your puppy is pouncing on your legs or feet as you walk, a common playful puppy behavior, Santo recommends holding a high-value treat next to your leg as you walk, to help the puppy learn to walk nicely alongside you. This same tactic is used when teaching a puppy to walk on a leash. Put them in a time-out Gently put your puppy in their crate to give them a chance to calm down and prevent them from biting. It’s very important to make sure that they don’t learn to associate the crate with punishment, so be calm. Once the pup calms down, you can let them out. Offer quiet time or a potty break Sometimes a biting puppy is really an over-tired puppy, and they need to be put in a quiet space or crate to take a nap. Other times, they may need a potty break, or may just be hungry or thirsty. Help use up some energy When the puppy keeps biting, even after you substitute a toy several times, he may just need to burn up some physical or mental energy. Take them in the yard and watch them run around. Reinforce behaviors you desire We sometimes forget that when our puppy is calm and quiet, we should reinforce that with a “good dog” or a piece of kibble or a pat. You’ll help them learn what behaviors you’re looking for through positive reinforcement. Never hit your dog Never, ever hit or otherwise physically punish your dog. If your pet seems to be biting out of aggression, speak to a veterinarian or dog trainer about ways to manage that behavior. Enroll in a puppy class. An AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy class or another well-run local class will provide your puppy with the chance to socialize with other dogs. Teaching your little manic play biter to be polite with their mouth may seem like a huge challenge at first. Patience and consistency are the keys. Some puppies may back off during one play session, and come at you teeth first in the next. “Play biting does not mean your puppy is vicious,” says Dr. Jerry Klein, AKC’s chief veterinary officer. “However, if you haven’t been able to moderate the behavior by the time they’re six months old, it’s a good idea to consult an experienced dog trainer or animal behavior specialist.”
How to Socialize Your Puppy During Times of Social Distancing
Puppies have a short time window for optimal socialization, and that requires exposure to multiple different surfaces, people of all backgrounds, and various new situations. But what about the puppies who happen to be within that window now, during this time of necessary social distancing due to COVID-19? How can they be socialized so they can grow to be confident and happy dogs for the rest of their lives? The Goals of Socialization First, it’s important to keep in mind the goals of puppy socialization. Paul Owens, professional dog trainer and bestselling author of The Dog Whisperer books, points out that “socialization does not mean putting a dog in a new situation and seeing what happens. Socialization means introducing new situations and making them safe, positive, confidence-building experiences.” Certified dog trainer and CGC evaluator Jacqui Foster, CPDT-KA, agrees: “As one of my mentors says, ‘Absence of one bad experience far outweighs 100 good experiences!'” She adds that each puppy learns differently, so “work with the dog in front of you … I tend to lean more towards developing self-confidence in the puppy, rather than flooding the dog with loads of people, noises, and experiences.” The Most Important Exposures for Your Puppy There are certain new situations to which all puppies should be exposed if possible, preferably during the first 16 weeks of life, and the good news is that most of these can be accomplished in and around your own home. Each positive experience builds your puppy’s self-confidence. These exposures include:
Different surfaces: grass, leaves, concrete, gravel, linoleum, carpet, wood, sand, etc.
Different sounds: think of all the everyday sounds around your home, including hairdryers, phone ringtones, radios, vacuum cleaners, and more. There are even recordings of sounds like thunder and other dogs barking that you can download for your puppy to hear. Be sure to make each noise exposure a positive experience by acting happy around the sound and associating the sound with yummy treats, and watch your puppy for any signs of stress.
Other dogs: this can be done if you have other dogs in the neighborhood you know and trust to be safe and well-mannered with your puppy. It will be important for you to know the other dogs’ owners as well; the best-case scenario would be to have a trusted, healthy friend who is also a dog owner, as you could then arrange safe play dates with the other dog while maintaining a safe distance from the other owner (more on this below).
Other people: this may be the most difficult of all at this time, but there are still ways to achieve this exposure for your puppy. Certainly have your puppy socialize with all the members of your household who are healthy. You can also let your puppy look out the window of your home as other people go by, and let your puppy see you act happy about those people. Also, consider all that your puppy can see and hear from the safety of your own car.
You can introduce your dog to different surfaces such as grass, leaves, concrete, gravel, linoleum, carpet, wood, and sand all in your backyard or living room. Safe Puppy Play Dates and Walks Your first worry may be that your puppy can pick up or spread COVID-19 to you or other humans. However, statements from the World Health Organization (WHO), the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), and the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) have all emphasized that, based on the available evidence, dogs cannot transmit COVID-19 to humans. Kelly L. Moore, MD, MPH, is a medical epidemiologist and public health physician with expertise in pandemic planning and response; she trained at the CDC as an Epidemic Intelligence Service (EIS) officer. She notes the importance of paying close attention while out on a walk so as to maintain your own six feet of space from the nearest human being—that’s the length of a six-foot leash—and, above all, the vital importance of washing your hands for at least 20 seconds after every encounter. Dr. Moore adds, “It’s helpful to identify trusted friends that you know will tell you if they develop any symptoms of illness and that you can trust when they say they’re feeling well, who can spend time with your puppy.” She also notes that “being outside is a great thing for people to do. The outside is an open environment with air that’s well-circulated; you’re able to stay more than six feet apart, so that’s a good environment for puppies to socialize in. I would have no issue with someone petting my puppy if they’re also healthy and have no symptoms [as long as] when you come back in from your walking and socializing, you wash your hands thoroughly.” Crate Training Is Still Important Even though you may currently be at home all day, your puppy still needs a structured schedule to reduce stress on everyone and to let the puppy know what is expected. Trainer and dog sports enthusiast Alexa Hagood, LVMT, states that this is a good opportunity to institute periods of “alone time,” like crate and nap breaks, so the puppy doesn’t develop separation anxiety when you do return to your place of work. Crate training can be an invaluable tool for your puppy at this time, just as with any other time. As Hagood puts it, “Just because someone is home with the puppy, doesn’t mean they need to be with the puppy 24/7. Crate breaks, even when brief, can help the puppy become acclimated to going in the crate and having some alone time, even when people are home.” She recommends starting with feeding times inside the crate (for five to ten minutes), and when the owner needs to do daily chores.
Preventing Resource Guarding
If you notice that your puppy is beginning to protect her toys, bed, balls, food, and other prized worldly possessions, she is starting to do what animal behaviorists call “resource guarding.” As with many behavior problems, the best solution for resource guarding is prevention and doing early training to keep the behavior from happening in the first place. If not stopped early, the protecting of possessions can escalate and you may find yourself with a puppy on your hands who is willing to snap or bite rather than give up a treat or her stuffed animal. Since resource guarding is a problem that is often accidentally shaped over time, watch for any signs that your puppy is being over protective of her possessions. Plan activities throughout the day that give you a chance to handle your pup’s toys, dishes and bed. If the puppy ever objects by growling, do not give in. This starts you down the dangerous slippery slope of having a puppy who will growl, then snap, then bite to protect her possessions. Some exercises you can do with your puppy to avoid having a resource guarder are:Some exercises you can do with your puppy to avoid having a resource guarder are: your mindset. Start by understanding that basically, you are the human and everything in the house, yard and car belongs to you. It is all on loan to your precious puppy. Life is about give and take. During puppy playtime, occasionally ask your puppy to, “Give.” Take the toy away for a few seconds. Then give it back and praise the puppy. When you are teaching this skill, you can exchange one chew toy for another, or exchange a toy for a treat. In the beginning, as soon as the puppy releases the item and “gives” as you say the word, give the puppy a treat. Don’t let food become an issue. With a puppy, you can start early by handling thefood dishand adding something to it so that your puppy learns good things come from you. If you’ve adopted a shelter or rescue puppy, know that prior to being rescued, these dogs may have been in a situation where they had to guard their food if they wanted to eat. You might need a behavior plan to address food guarding. Compliance training on basic good manners skills will help you address your pup’s problems with possessiveness. Sit and down as well as sit-stay and down-stay are all behaviors that can be used to manage your dog while your work on possessiveness issues.
Reactivity vs. Aggression
Aggression is one of the most common reasons pet owners seek professional help. But what really is aggression? Aggression is typically viewed as any threat to harm an individual, whether this individual is human or another animal. There are many different forms of aggression, and it is important to determine the cause in order to appropriately deal with the issue at hand. Aggression can be due to guarding territory or protecting a family member, resource guarding, fear, frustration, prey drive, and/or pain. Reactivity: Reactivity is commonly confused with aggression. Dogs that are reactive are those that overreact to certain things or situations. Genetics, lack of proper socialization, or a combination of the two can cause reactivity, and fear is typically the driving force. Reactive dogs may have certain triggers, such as men with beards or hats, small children, or situations when the dog feels trapped by being on a leash. Fight or Flight: Fear is the most common cause for aggression. Normally when a dog is scared, it chooses to run from what it’s afraid of. In situations where a dog is trapped and cannot flee from the inciting cause, he will decide to fight to preserve himself. Fearful dogs may not give any additional warnings other than their body language. The bites themselves are typically quick snaps and may occur when the person is leaving and has his back turned. There are many behaviors that look a lot like aggression but are not. Listed below are some of the behaviors commonly confused with aggression: 1. Mouthing/Nipping Puppies Puppies interact with their world through their mouth. When puppies play, either with other dogs or with their owners, they can become mouthy. Commonly they may become over-stimulated and nip harder than they should when playing. This nipping is not coming from a puppy that is being aggressive, but rather he is just having too much fun playing and needs a break. 2. Rough Play Dog-to-dog play is a normal part of canine interaction. Dog play is mock fighting. Puppies learn how to do this appropriately from their peers. Dog play can become intense, get loud, and appear aggressive, but as long as both dogs are having fun and respecting their body language, it can be a great activity for socialization and exercise. 3. Resource Guarding Dogs will tend to guard things that they believe hold great worth. These items can be toys, food, bones, sleeping areas, and even people. This tendency comes from the fact that our dogs descended from ancestors that were wild and had to protect their resources in order to survive. Teaching dogs behaviors such as “leave it” and “out” can help curb this behavior. Another good way to deal with resource guarding is to trade with your dog, exchanging the forbidden object that he is guarding for a treat. 4. Leash Reactivity Leash-reactive dogs tend to growl, bark, and/or lunge toward things that make them nervous or fearful. These triggers may be other dogs and/or people and can be narrowed to specifics such as children, men, people wearing hats, or male/female dogs. Dogs that display these behaviors are not acting aggressive, they are trying to prevent a fight. They are trying to make the threat go away or increase the distance between themselves and the threat. If a reactive dog approaches you, the best thing you can do is give him space. Do not approach in an attempt to greet him. The owner is likely trying to train through the behavior, and by keeping your distance you will help in this training. Body Language Since dogs cannot talk, they must rely on their body language to tell other dogs and humans how they are feeling about different situations. Below are some common body language signals that everyone who interacts with dogs should know: 1. Signs of a Happy Dog:
If you believe your dog is truly aggressive, then it is best to seek professional help. You can start by asking your veterinarian for a reference for a behaviorist in your area.
How to Deal With Leash Aggression
Like a case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, the leash-aggressive dog is calm, cool, and downright polite when walking among people or around dogs off-leash. But hook on a leash, and he lunges, barks, and snaps at the sight of another dog. Has this scenario reduced you to mapping out walks where you know you won’t run into other dogs? Although leash-aggressive dogs rarely follow through with a bite, the experience is frightening and embarrassing enough to make their owners decide to limit or eliminate walks altogether. But that doesn’t have to be the case if you understand the causes and solutions for this type of behavior. A combination of frustration and tension, leash aggression is a common problem. Many dogs that show these traits crave interaction with other dogs, but most have less-than-stellar canine social skills for creating a successful meet and greet. Much like a child who runs onto a playground and puts another child in a headlock as a way of saying, “Hey, let’s be friends!” a dog lacking social skills may lunge and bark at a passing dog instead of using subtle signs to signal their desire to form a relationship. When their owners witness this behavior they (understandably) pull their dogs away and avoid exposing them to social interactions with other canines. But this ensures that their dog will never learn how to correctly interact with other dogs, and dooms them and their dog to a life devoid of canine friendships. Call in the Experts While it sounds counter-intuitive, the road to fixing this issue is actually off-leash interactions with dogs. But don’t do this without seeking the help of a professional dog trainer, because before you take this step, you must learn how to correctly read the native language of dogs--body language! If you don’t know what your dog or the other dog is saying with their body signals, you may see play when it’s really tension, and tension when it’s really dog play. In addition, a qualified trainer can help you evaluate your dog to see if this is a typical case of leash aggression, or if there’s something else happening. Whenever I’m handling this type of dog behavior problem, I always make sure that the dog has had a complete veterinary exam to rule out any medical causes for the behavior. Turn to Treats to Distract In the meantime, start decreasing your dog’s frustration when he’s on leash and spies another dog by removing the tension from your leash. To do that, you’re going to teach your dog that when he sees another dog, he’ll be rewarded for looking at you. This training game is called “Cookie Dog,” and starts with you and your dog sitting on a park bench in an area where there are a small number of dogs out and about. Do your research in advance and scout out a few places without your dog. Your dog should be very hungry (playing this before mealtimes is ideal) and you should have a large amount of high-value types of dog treats (steak, chicken, tortellini) with you. Keep in mind that the treats you always use when you’re training at home will be less exciting when you’re outside and there are lots of distractions. And you already know how rewarding he finds other dogs, so be prepared to break out the good stuff! Once you’re at the bench with your on-leash hungry dog and your fabulous treats, wait for a dog to come by. The minute you see your dog notice him, say “Cookie dog!” and put a treat in front of his nose. Feed him treat after treat until the dog has gone by. At that point, no more reward—until the next dog shows up. This is going to teach your dog that the arrival of another dog means you’re going to pay out treats like a hot slot machine in Vegas. The result should be that your dog sees the other dog, turns to you, and expects a reward. Keep up this game for a week or so. Once your dog consistently looks to you when another dog enters the picture, you can then ask your calm and focused dog to “Sit” and “Stay.” After a few weeks of playing the Cookie Dog game on a bench, start playing it on the move. It’s crucial that you are focused on your dog and the presence of other dogs while on the walk. That means that during this phase, keep your mind in the game and not on texting, talking on the phone, or listening to music. Besides, you’ll be meeting so many new people and their dogs, you won’t have time to do anything else. Getting your dog to focus on you when other dogs appear is the first step toward maintaining his Dr. Jekyll personality on leash. With practice and some professional input, you can keep him from turning into Mr. Hyde when other dogs appear.
Training Your Dog to Ignore Distractions Key Points
Most dogs listen well in quiet environments but some struggle with distractions.
Getting your dog to ignore distractions and focus on you is crucial for owners.
"Watch Me", "Leave It" and "Let's Go" are good cues to help dogs ignore distractions.
Training.
Does your dog only listen at home or training class and ignore you everywhere else? Maybe you suspect your dog is stubborn and only obeys when they feel like it. Well, getting your dog to come when called or to sit and stay is easy in a quiet house. Out and about in a world full of distractions is another situation entirely. The more likely explanation for your dog’s disobedience is that they’re overwhelmed by the environment and simply can’t focus. There are too many interesting things to explore and dogs need to sniff them all. It’s often not deliberate defiance. You just might not have taught your dog to tune out distractions and concentrate on you. Build Distractions Slowly Most dogs can focus in environments where distractions are limited or controlled, like the house or training facility. But you can’t control distractions in the real world. Instead, you must teach your dog to focus on you no matter where you are or what is going on around you. So how do you teach your dog to listen no matter what? It’s simple but requires some planning and management. The trick to distraction training is to start with a small distraction and slowly build up to larger and more enticing ones. For example, if you have a ball-obsessed dog, don’t start by tossing the ball past your dog’s nose while teaching your dog to stay. Instead, start with the ball on the ground several feet away while asking for a stay. If your dog can handle that, gradually move the ball closer during the next training session. Next, hold the ball. Then, toss it in your hand. As a final test, toss the ball past your dog. This type of training may take weeks to progress through but will serve to build your dog’s confidence as they get better and better. The key point is to set your dog up for success. If it seems too easy, then you’re probably at the right level of distraction. Remember that every time your dog ignores you in favor of the distraction, your dog is practicing ignoring you. That’s not a habit you want to build. On the other hand, every time your dog is successful at doing what you ask, your dog learns the value of concentrating on you. Distraction Training Tips Don’t just manage the distractions, manage the environment too. It’s no good working on low-level distractions if a group of kids is going to burst into the room at any second. For some dogs, even high-value treats or toys can be too exciting. Think about any possible factor that could grab your dog’s focus and control it as best you can. Only when your dog has mastered the toughest distractions in training are you ready to take on the unpredictability of the real world. When you’re doing distraction training, leave distance and duration alone. Known as the three Ds of dog training, each of these acts as a different challenge for your dog. So, when you’re training stay with the tennis ball, don’t add in walking away from your dog (distance) and don’t ask for a stay of several minutes (duration). That’s simply too many challenges at one time. Stay close and keep behaviors short so the distraction is the only issue your dog has to face. Match Rewards to Distraction Levels When teaching your dog to handle distractions, understand that you are competing with the environment. You need to offer your dog a better choice. Dogs repeat rewarding behaviors, so if sniffing the tree trunk and ignoring you is more rewarding than coming when called, your dog will choose the tree trunk every time. For most dogs, that would certainly be the case if all you were offering was a bit of kibble. But what if you upped your game and rewarded your dog with a chunk of chicken breast or a game of tug-of-war? That would make your dog think twice about choosing the tree trunk over you the next time around. If you’re the most exciting thing in the environment and provide the best rewards, your dog will be much more likely to ignore the world and listen to you. Every dog has a different hierarchy of rewards. In other words, some will do anything for freeze-dried liver and others want their tennis ball more than food. Learn what your dog loves best and use that hierarchy to match the level of distraction you’re competing with. The top items should go with the hardest challenges. Save the boring stuff for the minor distractions only. In fact, you can even use the hardest distractions as rewards themselves. If squirrels are your dog’s favorite thing, let him chase one after he lies down to reinforce obeying the down cue in the presence of a squirrel. This is known as the Premack Principle, and it teaches dogs that giving you what you want will get them what they want. Watch Me, Leave It, and Let’s Go Even with the best training program, there will still be times when your dog is caught up in a new smell or activity and loses concentration. You can’t train for every scenario. That’s where “Leave It,” “Watch Me,” and “Let’s Go” come in handy. “Leave It” teaches your dog when something is off-limits. Use this cue to prevent your dog from becoming wrapped up in a distraction. “Watch Me” tells your dog to make eye contact with you. This is a great way to switch your dog’s focus from a distraction back to you. And finally, “Let’s Go,” often used in place of “heel”, is great on walks to tell your dog it’s time to move on and get going.
Clicker Training & Off Leash Training Get your Puppy use to the clicker.
(i.e. say his/her name) if your puppy responds, *click* Reward.
Try basic commands that your puppy already knows
Things your puppy does flawlessly. When your dog does what you asked *click* reward each and every time with lots of encouragement. At this time work on the leave it commands with your Puppy. (placing toys or food in front of them, and your puppy will have to ignore it until you say so) I would also learn the HEAL command with your dog. Sitting at your side or walking at your side. If they were to walk ahead of you on leash, have them heal to your side.
You can accomplish this while walking or standing in one spot. Holding a treat in your hands at your side or to your chest. Have your dog watch it and you as you walk or stand (always making sure that your dog is at your side). If your dog stays at your side “say HEAL” *Click* reward. (something that should be taught while leash clicker means, and they understand that rewards come when they have done what is asked of them, then you can move on with other commands that they may or may not know as well.
Change up your dogs environment frequently. Don’t always do basic commands at home or the training facility. Do them on walks, hikes, dog parks, stores, etc. Off leash training can be more difficult to accomplish, but its best to practice at home first.
Calling their name. If your dog responds, even looks at you, *click*
Rewards only when your dog comes to you without chase.
Once you have that down, where your dog comes each time at your home without fail. (i.e. coming inside when called, or just coming to you when they hear their name.) then you can move to the next steps.
Get a long lead. (i.e. 50-100 foot lead) You will use this along with the clicker and treats for off leash training
Go somewhere that is not your house (i.e. dog parks, parks, large fields) Best if possible, to go somewhere fenced but is not a big deal so long as you have the lead. The lead will be used as the “Safety Handle” on your dog. If your dog were to take off they would be dragging it behind and you will be able to control the situation before it happens.
When out in the new area, always hold onto the lead at first, until you are fully confident in your dog to drop the lead. Let your dog roam, then call their name. If your dog doesn’t respond bring them back using the lead until he/she is next to you. Only call their name once and not multiple times. Try basic commands with your dog on the lead *click* and reward, every time and always with lots of encouragement. Let your dog wander away (while still on the lead) and call their name. Eventually they will be coming back each and every time on call, And remember *click* and lots of encouragement. This could take a while. Days, Weeks, Months. Please don’t get discouraged. Once your dog is successfully coming when called on the lead, no matter how far the dog is from you, then you can move on to a few more steps. Sit, stay, come. While your dog is on their lead standing next to you. Have your dog sit or lay down *click* reward when they do.
Walk away from your dog telling them to stay. If your dog moves, go back to them and start again.
When you get a good distance away *click* but do not talk, Turn to your dog and call him/her to come, be ecstatic and *click* if they come straight to you.
Continue this until you can successfully get your dog to stay put each and every time without fail.
Once this is accomplished start having your dog heal at your side when calling them.
Next steps to take (still on the lead) Stand next to your dog (i.e. with food or a toy.) tell your dog to sit and stay.
Throw the food or toy in front of you. If they try to get up to retrieve it, pull them back down into a sit or down position and tell them to leave it. Walk away from your dog, walk circles around them. Do whichever.
If listens *click* and let them retrieve the item. This is going to build a since of security for both of you. If you ask them to leave it, even if they really wants it. Then they will know to STOP and leave it. If your dog was running after another dog, bird, chipmunk. And you were to tell them leave it and come. Then they should and will do so. Its very important when they are completely off leash that they know this. (especially with being a herding breed)
Once you are completely confident in your dog, with both their recall, and leave it commands, then you can start fully off leash work with them. I would do this in a fenced in area.
Continue all the above with them.
Recall, Heal, basic commands, leave it, etc.
Until you are fully confident that your dog knows, when you call or ask them to do something than they will automatically do it. It should become second nature to them. You should always have control of your dog in any situation, no matter where you are. (i.e. busy park, store, side walk in the country or city, home or away)